The reason we came to Kudowa-Dzroj wasn't
that it's a well-known spa town nor that it's conveniently located near the
border. Our goal was a small chapel Kaisa had happened to read about in the
guidebook (that she only puts down when she gets on her bike). Its name, The
Chapel of Skulls, tells it all: it's covered from bottom to top in piles of
human skulls and shinbones. Some are arranged in decorative bunches around
statues of saints and some attached to the roof in the classic skull-and-bones
style.
The baffling work of art was created by
an 18th-century priest who, with the help of
a local gravedigger, used skulls from
mass graves war and disease had left in the area. Unfortunately (but not
unexpectedly) it was forbidden to take photos in the actual chapel, so you have
to just come here and see it for yourself. We're still not too far from Wroclaw
so it would probably be possible to do a day trip here from the city.
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